Jean Paul Gaultier is answerable for so many common vogue developments and design motifs that it may be exhausting to recollect all of them. Happily, Olivier Rousteing’s one-off high fashion assortment for the French home, proven in Paris on Wednesday, serves as a daring reminder of each one in every of them.
Rousteing follows designers Chitose Abe and Glenn Martens in making a one-off couture assortment for Gaultier, impressed by the retired designer’s legacy. And if he started his design course of for this assortment by brain-dumping each single factor the title “Jean Paul Gaultier” introduced up, he did not omit a single ingredient from that listing. That mentioned, the Balmain inventive director put his personal spin on these codes.
As an illustration, Gaultier’s well-known sailor stripes are patch-worked with scarf motifs into grungey menswear shirts and jackets, or coated in tattoo designs on skin-tight sheer tops. (That is a part of a males’s ready-to-wear aspect challenge that launched the couture vary.) There are numerous iterations of the model’s conical bra form, made well-known by Madonna — on bustiers, blazers and robes, together with one manufactured from a woven basket materials à la caned furnishings. Rousteing actually pushes the envelope with regards to supplies, together with with sculptural attire constructed from what seems like shiny silver and gold metallic, meant to resemble Gaultier’s well-known Le Male and Classique fragrance bottles. Trompe-l’oeil strategies — one other Gaultier favourite — carry much more whimsy to the runway. Although, I am undecided who however Rihanna impressed Rousteing to indicate two leather-clad child bumps, additionally that includes the cone boobs.
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Rousteing additionally incorporates a few of his personal recognizable Balmain signatures into the gathering, like sculptural, party-ready mini attire and robes with exaggerated hip and shoulder silhouettes. However as he instructed WWD, “This collaboration helped me to grasp who I’m with out Balmain.”
See each look from the Olivier Rousteing for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture assortment within the gallery under.
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