Virginie Viard’s work at Chanel tends to draw back from the acute themes favored by her predecessor, Karl Lagerfeld: no man-made seashores, no reproduction historic websites — simply garments.
So it is all the time a bit stunning when the inventive director commits to a theme, as she did for Fall 2022. The newest Chanel assortment is centered round tweed — “infinite tweed,” to be extra exact — the home’s signature cloth used on every thing from luggage to skirt fits. The difficulty with tweed, although, is that it may be cumbersome, particularly when layered collectively, triply so when layered with thick knits. That appears to have tripped up Viard.
Chanel has confirmed that tweed can be cool and even just a little attractive, whether or not finished up in pastel brights or mini-skirted units. However that wasn’t the transfer for Fall 2022. There are efforts at youthfulness, sure — denim shorts paired with these thigh-high socks and wellies hearkens again to Alexa Chung at Glastonbury circa 2008, and the thigh-high rain boots try playfulness, even when they’re in unappealing colours. (That is so usually a pitfall for Viard, who appears to be drawn to muddied, muted shades.) Low-slung tweed pencil skirts and strapless tweed attire goal for cool however finally fall flat. Dowdy takes on micro-kitten heels do not assist.
It is a disgrace, as a result of there are really nice items in right here. Regardless of the tweed theme, Viard does some nice work with leather-based, particularly in a trench type and a pair of chocolate brown cropped pants. (The identical can’t be mentioned of the shift attire or a pair of pants minimize loosely across the hips.) The gown coat that opens the present is beautiful, a nod on the previous that also feels very fashionable. The knits are enjoyable, particularly the outsized cardigans which is able to look even higher damaged up with a pair of denims. And the blown-out, ’90s type wealthy lady hair, usually held again with a single barrette, is beautiful.
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However general, it was… frumpy. And frumpy can definitely work in a nod-wink kind of manner, however there isn’t any such enjoyable available right here. Whether or not it is a difficulty with styling or a difficulty with proportions, one thing must be tweaked at Chanel relating to ready-to-wear runways.
See the whole Chanel Fall 2022 assortment within the gallery under:
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